South Sulawesi: Makassar aka Ujung Pandang

City of Makassar sign at Losari beach

City of Makassar sign at Losari beach

Makassar, formerly known as Ujung Pandang, is the capital city of the province of South Sulawesi, Indonesia.  It is the land of the Bugis, the largest group linguistically and ethnically in South Sulawesi.  There are Bugis Makassar, Bugis Bone, Bugis Soppeng, et cetera. Why the distinction?  Perhaps they want to be known by the region they belong to and there are a few regions in South Sulawesi (also Southeast Sulawesi) that speak the lingo with subtle differences.  As for me what I know is that it is the land of my maternal roots.  Which region?  I don’t know and I don’t speak the lingo, unless I could find houses that are quite similar to those Bugis houses that are found in the Johor-Riau area.  I know it exists.  If I am not mistaken, I once saw it in Indonesia national television TVRI.  It was quite similar except for the stilts that were higher than those in Johor-Riau and its boxy arrangement.

A Bugis house in Serkat, Pontian, Johor, Malaysia

A Bugis house in Serkat, Pontian, Johor, Malaysia

Pinisi at Paotere harbour

Motorised Pinisi. A non motorised have two masts

Bugis are well known for their seafaring skills.  They have reached far and wide.  Also, their boat, the Pinisi, is well known too.  It looks like a schooner but because of its larger front mast it could be termed resembling a ketch.  I read that the design was derived from the Dutch pinas of the early 17th century.  This left me guessing that what is left of the original Bugis boat is the art of making the boat itself and that boat building craft now can still be found in Bulukumba, a district in the southernmost tip of the peninsula province of South Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Pssst: One other thing about the Bugis, they (not all of them) are quite hot-tempered.

Last week I set foot for the first time in the land of my ancestors and spent five days in Makassar.  It was a short five days stay and not enough time to venture far and out except for Bantimurung-Bulusaraung National Park.  I stayed at Losmen Semeru in the northern part of the city near the Port of Makassar and spent most of the time covering the coastal areas from Paotere port in the north down to Trans Mall in the south. Here are the rest of the selected pictures.

Workmen repairing the bow of a Pinisi

Workmen repairing the bow of a Pinisi

The bow and anchors of the Pinisi

Bow and anchors of the Pinisi

Strong barefooted workmen loading goods into the hold of the Pinisi

Strong barefooted workmen loading goods into the ship’s hold

There are 2 types of becaks in Makassar, pedalled power and motorised

2 types of becaks in Makassar, pedal powered and motorised

Road leading away from Paotere port

Road leading away from Paotere port

Mini roadside convenience stall

Mini roadside convenience stall

Banana stall

Banana stall

Dried fish for sale

Dried fish for sale

Busy morning scene at a river near Paotere

Busy morning scene at a river near Paotere

Jalan Nusantara Baru next to Makassar port

Jalan Nusantara Baru next to Makassar port

Jalan Sulawesi

Jalan Sulawesi

Besides taxis and becaks there are Pete-pete (pronounced paytay-paytay)

Besides taxis and becaks there are Pete-pete (pronounced paytay-paytay) in Makassar

Rush hour traffic in Makassar

Rush hour traffic in Makassar

Buildings inside Fort Rotterdam

Buildings inside Fort Rotterdam

Museum in one of the buildings in Fort Rotterdam

One of two museums in Fort Rotterdam

Losari beach looking north

Losari beach looking north

One of the scultures at Losari beach

One of the sculptures at Losari beach car park

Drink stalls outside Fort Rotterdam

Drink stalls outside Fort Rotterdam

Food stalls across the road from Fort Rotterdam

Food stalls across the road from Fort Rotterdam

Premium shopping at Trans Mall

Premium shopping at Trans Mall

Being a backpacker I shop here at Sentral

Being a backpacker I shop here at Sentral

High and dry.  Looks like a makeshift offshore dock

High and dry. Looks like a makeshift offshore dock

Inside Sultan Hasanuddin Airport

Inside Sultan Hasanuddin Airport

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