I left the standard single bay GH6 Gray Hoverman antenna at the rented house when I moved out to my new place. Only recently that I had the time to construct an antenna again. I had chosen the GH10n3 version of the Gray Hoverman. The reasons were better gain and its dual band nature, UHF and VHF band III. It is slightly more complex than the GH6 but still it can be approached simply and without any sophisticated tools. The antenna is now up and running good except for a bit of double image. This I assume caused by 3 segments of different RF cables being used though all are of 75 Ohm type. One provided by the builder running from the living room to the roof. Another, a short run that I did when constructing the antenna and because the cable by the builder is not long enough I had to add another segment. So there are 3 cable segments and two joints from the antenna to the wall socket. Apparently there are mismatches. This I shall rectify after the Eid Festival.
(Note: Apparently the link above doesn’t work any more. Here’s another for GH10n3)
That said, here are the pictures of the steps that I did in constructing the antenna. Note that after the completion of the antenna, I decided to move the mounting from the rear stem to the main stem for the obvious reason, balance and stability.
A reference line drawn on the main stem. The method for drawing I got it from the net
All the positions of the elements noted on the main stem and colour coded. Second line from top was a mistake
Another tip from the net, circumference of the tube measured with a strip of paper and then divided into four to get the quadrant markings
Holes drilled for the mounting of the driven elements and rear reflectors
Obviously alignment needed here
Tees for mounting the driven elements extended
A length of tube cut into strips for attaching the reflectors by rivets
Reflectors and mounts for the driven elements done
Main stem inserted with mounts for driven elements and rear reflectors
During aligning process, holes were made bigger and even though bonded with PVC solvent, three or four pegs from satay bamboo skewers were driven to make the joint firm
The main stem done
Tees were used to hold the rear reflectors. Centering and holding the reflector element done with rubber washers for tap. Centre line marked on the reflector element and the hole on the T to see it
All the reflectors in place. PVC wiring conduit cover placed on the two sides
Driven element bended and strips of brass soldered with a portable torch
Holes were drilled on the conduit covers and slots cut to slide in the narod. A piece of the other part of the wiring conduit cut and lock on with the cover to strengthen it. Two long and four short length of PVC wiring conduits hold the tips of the driven elements and narods in place
Grooves were made with a half round file before attaching the strips that hold the reflectors and screwed in place. Bonding solvent were then applied. The screws were removed after the strips had bonded with the stem except for two that attached to the stem of the driven elements holders
For anybody interested in constructing one, here are my sketches derived from the interactive 3D models on nikiml’s Antenna page.
Driven elements and Narods
Update 14 March 2014
Here is a map from Google Map. My location is somewhere near the pointer. Local transmissions are located at Gunung Pulai (Mt Pulai) which is nearby but the line of sight for the transmissions from Singapore (on the larger green area near Choa Chu Kang) and Pulau Batam, Indonesia (on the very western side of the island) is slightly blocked by the mountain.
Map by Google
Update 21 February 2016
I have made another antenna after this one and made used of Ts and I drilled through the Ts so that it just slotted through the main stem and held them in their places with the PVC cement. Just recently I made another two using the method here and improved the method for aligning the mounts for the driven elements and Narod reflectors (the last three reflectors at the rear). I drilled a few holes and inserted screws to hold them in place, then I applied fast setting resin adhesive at the joints. Since resin is a very strong bonding material, it is very rigid and strong.
This one made using Ts
A 300-75 Ohms transformer inside the pipe connected to the RF panel connector seen here. Holes where screws were inserted to hold the radiator mount can be seen at the bottom of the joint
The centre line of two reflectors are touching the pipe of two mounts so part of the holder for the reflector cut-off to accommodate and the corresponding pipe’s end filed. One of the lines seen at the bottom is a mistake, the other is the reference line for the reflector’s plane