Fixing The Manual Steering Rack

There was a small play on the steering rack. Initially I thought it was the rack end but after removing the steering rack and on closer inspection, the movement was lateral and not longitudinal along the axis of the rack.  The small play was a result of a worn out bush in the rack housing and not the ball joint on the rack end. It was my first time having a look at the mechanics of the manual steering rack and I was surprised that the bush was made of plastic. I had no problem in getting the replacement part and since it was plastic it was cheap too.

I had no clue on how to remove the cylindrical cover of the pinion without hurting it. It was not the problem so I left it alone

Job done and dusted, also replaced were the rubbers on the tie rods

Now the small problem with the steering rack had been fixed, I’m on the next agenda that is to make the steering of the old car more firm. The handling of the old car is not as good as the handling of new cars of today. While the control arms are solid, it doesn’t have a front anti-roll bar. Aftermarket front anti-roll bar for the old car is not easy to find. At least what I can do is to install a strut bar to improve it.

Practically Done With The Car

All aboard

Whatever in the engine bay is back to where it belong. The old engine is a mess and the head too. In the end I just clean the transmission, put in new oil seals and just plug and play with the replacement engine. I did removed the carbon on the piston heads, valves and its surrounding areas though.  The car has moved since been immobile for more than a year.  The job is done but it is an old car so I need to look at other things that might need attention, mostly trimmings, brakes and the steering.

The wobbling in the balance shaft (top) even minute is too much for the plastic gear attached to it

Oil seals in the gearbox replaced

I now have an extra engine which I can rebuild and the transmission unit too. I can use it to power a DIY buggy if I have the raw materials, cutting, bending and welding equipment plus the will to do it.

Rebuilding CB23 Engine…again

The engine bay of the Daihatsu G200 cleaned out. Apparently not all of the oil is drained out

Actually I am not rebuilding this time but to replace the engine with the one I bought a week ago. I was told by the seller that the engine is in good condition and I just need to plug and play. The problem with the old engine was that I could not get one of the replacement parts, the oversize sleeve bearing for the balance shaft. Since I need transport, I assembled it back. When the engine gets hot, the oil pressure indicator lighted. It was OK for short travel distances of not more than half hour. The day I dragged the car for a long distance travel, the engine just died, luckily I was almost home.

The old engine and its replacement on the right

Well since the engine is down and out, I might as well clean it and transfer the water and oil pumps (which I bought new) from the old engine to the replacement engine. Also this time around I shall be tearing the transmission apart, clean it and replace the oil seals. After years of hard work, the oil seals are hard like wood. The problem with CB23 transmission is that to change the oil seals, everything have to be removed before you have access to the oil seals. Might as well clean it and remove the metal dust collected by the magnet.

Can't do without it, my crude trolley and winch. See the harddisk plates that are used as guide

There was quite a few interest in the CB23 engine, I might, if I am not lazy to lift my butt and clean the hands, show some pictures of the engine innards here.